Issue #45: The beginner's guide to scoring great vintage finds online
According to six experts!
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.“In my early twenties I used to shop a lot of fast fashion,” says writer, brand consultant, and style expert
, “but I grew more and more disheartened by how bad the quality — and how short the lifespan — of the clothing was.”She gradually learned more about the relationship between sustainability and fashion. “The most sustainable thing you can do is not shop at all, but if you are going to shop, you should try to buy something preloved and hold onto it for a very long time.”
This philosophy dramatically changed how Harling shops for clothes. Not only is it better for the environment, “it’s the best way to feed my passion for acquiring one-of-a-kind pieces that don’t feel like something everyone else has — and afford designer brands that would otherwise be far outside my budget.”
I’ve gone through a similar journey.
It took me many years to dip my toes into online vintage shopping. The prospect was intimidating — sizing is incredibly variable (not just between brands but time periods), many sites don’t accept returns, and it’s harder to gauge the potential of a piece when you can’t put it on.
But I’m so glad I ended up forging ahead, because the finds, my friends? The finds are good. I’ve bought clothing that looks like it’s straight out of the latest DÔEN or Christy Dawn catalog — at a fourth of the price, and it’s not inspired by the 70s, it’s from the 70s. I’ve found affordable vintage Prada, Gucci, and Chloe shoes. I’ve scooped up great-quality leather, linen, wool, and cotton. Basically, I’ve learned sometimes deals aren’t too good to be true.
For help navigating the world of online vintage/secondhand shopping, I consulted six experts:
- , former senior fashion writer for The Cut turned freelance writer and author of , a newsletter about what people are actually wearing
- , closet and style therapist and author of , a resource for curated shopping links and style tips
- , writer, host of EV salon, and author of , firsthand essays about (mostly) secondhand clothing, archived outfits, and recommendations
The aforementioned
of , a style newsletter that curates hard-to-find and sometimes one-of-a-kind fashion, home decor, and more- , therapist, writer, quilter, and author of , a dedicated space to share the joy, meaning, and nostalgia attached to what we wear
- , fashion writer and founder of , thoughtful fashion and culture writing for the secondhand designer enthusiast
Here’s what they shared with me…
Where to shop
There are a bunch of different vintage/secondhand shopping platforms, each with their own advantages. In general, the more curated a platform is, the easier it is to browse without an agenda and stumble on something cool. On less curated sites, you’ll want to have a piece, era, and/or aesthetic in mind or follow sellers you like.
Whatever site you’re using: Make an account! This will allow you to save products, searches, and stores/sellers, making it easier to stay organized. Plus, sellers will often send you exclusive deals for stuff you’ve added to your cart or watchlist but haven’t bought yet. (If you’re not worried about someone else snapping an item up, sitting on it for 24 hours is a reliable way to save money on its list price.)
Emilia says she’s “still” addicted to The RealReal — the online luxury/designer consignment sites that launched a hundred more — because “it’s the easiest to navigate, and you just can’t beat the fact that you can return stuff.” Personally, when I’m looking for contemporary designer clothing and accessories, TheRealReal is the first site I turn to. And thanks to the algorithmic discounts, which kick in automatically the longer a product is listed, you can get fantastic deals.
Viv loves Noihsaf Bazaar “for niche independent brands” — think resale from the coolest boutiques in Brooklyn. There’s a lot of babaà knits, Doen dresses, and B Sides denim. And if you’re shopping for cool secondhand clothing for your kids, there’s probably no better site.
I tend to mentally group Depop and Poshmark as platforms for inexpensive contemporary clothing, but Eleanor provides some useful differentiation. The former is best for brands that skew younger and slightly curated thrift store finds, while Poshmark is great when you’re hunting down specific items from brands like J. Crew and Madewell.
“Lately I’ve been finding some gems on Poshmark!” Viv says. “An alpaca Shaina Mote cardigan and yellow Martiniano glove shoes.”
My favorite platform of late has been Etsy. I’ve found several great sellers by looking for specific vintage pieces (like “60s shift dress”), checking out the store profiles, and following any with good selections and reviews. (I’ve shared some of my favorite Etsy stores below.)
But the site that won the popular vote was… eBay.
“If I had to choose one to shop for the rest of my life, it would be eBay because of the vast inventory and overall pricing compared to other platforms,” Viv explains.
Plus, the filters allow you to get very specific. “It’s the best for general searches (‘sweater vest,’ for example),” says Eleanor, “because you can use their extensive filters to narrow down by color, style, material, etc.”
How to shop
One of the first vintage items I bought was a pair of black Levis — perfectly worn, effortlessly cool. I was in a rush and, despite knowing the variability of vintage sizing, best-guessed the measurements. Unfortunately, my best guess was not correct: The jeans are too loose in the crotch and puddle at my ankles. It was an expensive mistake.
“If I had to choose one to shop for the rest of my life, it would be eBay because of the vast inventory and overall pricing compared to other platforms.” - Viv Chen
The pros have a lot of tips to avoid errors like this one. Reva recommends starting with pieces that don’t need to fit perfectly, like blazers and coats: They’re easier to tailor and provide more room for error.
Everyone I talked to recommended getting a measuring tape — Erika’s favorite is this one — and disregarding sizes.
“Use measurements, not sizes!” Eleanor says. “The pit to pit measurement is the easiest way for me to tell if something is going to fit. Measure a couple of your favorite shirts and jackets and use those measurements as guidelines.”
I’ve been using size to filter down the vast quantity of options — what should I do instead?
“If not screening by size gives you too much to search through, include one size below and above your normal one to make sure you don’t miss something,” Eleanor advises.
Once you’ve found something you’re interested in, there are a few more steps to take before buying it. Reva will trawl Google and Pinterest for older images of the item, hoping to see how it looks from different angles and fits on a model.
Emilia strongly suggests zooming in — ideally in the item description the seller will call out any noticeable flaws, stains, etc., but this doesn’t always happen.
And Harling encourages paying “scrupulous attention” to the item’s fabric composition.
“A lot of secondhand and vintage (not to mention a lot of contemporary pieces) are made of polyester or other synthetic materials, which isn’t going to feel nice or age well,” she says. “Look for things made of 100% natural fibers like wool, silk, cotton, and linen.”
Again, ideally the seller provides the item’s material(s) up-front (either in the description or via a picture of its tag), but if they don’t: Ask! Before I made an offer for a suede trench coat on Vestiaire, I confirmed its composition with the seller. Not only was the exterior 100% leather, but the lining was 100% silk — telling me the coat was better-constructed than I’d known.
Finally, familiarize yourself with the return policy. When you’re starting out, Erika recommends buying things that can be returned. If you’re not sure what the policy is — similar to the composition — check with the platform and/or seller.
It’s normal to feel overwhelmed by the prospect of delving into these platforms.
“There is a lot of stuff, and many things are one of one, with unique measurements and details,” Viv explains. “It's a lot of mental processing that you don't have to do when shopping new. Notice when you start feeling exhausted and just walk away from the laptop.”
And be patient, she continues: “Secondhand wardrobes are built over years of careful shopping, and the process should be fun.”
To guide your efforts, Reva recommends getting a clear sense of your personal style and what you’re looking for first. I’ve been using an app called Locker to save the images and pieces I stumble across online that inspire me; or, as Reva suggests, you can use Pinterest.
And — as I’ve had to learn the hard way a few times — just because a piece is an incredible find doesn’t mean you need to buy it. Eleanor has landed in a similar place.
“I recently bought this sweater as a gift for a friend, realized that it was way too big, and returned it. I have to remind myself that I can appreciate something absurd or beautiful without needing to add it to my closet!” she says.
What to shop
For inspiration, I asked everyone about some of their best scores.
Viv’s is a vintage Courrèges vinyl jacket she bought on eBay for $150. “They’re rare and typically sell for anywhere from $400 to $800, so I was beyond thrilled one morning to see that listing,” she says. “There was a big scuff on the back but I didn't mind. My hands were shaking trying to check out as fast as possible.”
“As I’ve had to learn the hard way a few times — just because a piece is an incredible find doesn’t mean you need to buy it.” - Aja
Reva had coveted an old Céline twisted tote for years when she found a “gorgeous one in a beautiful color.”
“I couldn’t justify buying it for myself at that particular time, so I posted it on my Instagram for my audience to buy. My husband surprised me with it for my birthday a few months later. Now it’s extra special — one of my most prized possessions,” she says.
Emilia’s vintage obsessions include the green Prada SS 1996 looks.
“I pieced together a matching green Prada skirt and blazer set over the course of a few years,” she says. “I had to have the skirt tailored to my size, but it was worth it!”
As someone who’s already spent upwards of twenty hours searching for a unique yet relatively timeless wedding dress, I was particularly impressed by Erika’s find: She got her wedding dress on eBay for less than $100 “before I was even engaged” then reworked it with the team at Bode.
That was a lot of info, so here’s a recap of what the experts taught me:
Choose the right platform for your quest: For specific items, you’ll find the best deals and treasures on less curated platforms; if you need ideas or inspiration, shop on curated sites.
Measurements > sizes: Buy a measuring tape, and measure your favorite pieces. If a piece doesn’t have the measurements listed, ask.
Read the fine print: Materials made of 100% natural fibers (not synthetic materials) are going to age and feel better.
Know yourself: Before plunging down any expensive vintage rabbit holes, figure out what you like to wear and how.
Be patient: The best finds sometimes take years of hunting (and that’s the fun part!)
And for paying subscribers, I’ve curated a bonus list of online vintage/secondhand stores and sellers the experts (and I!) endorse…