Issue #101: How I got $895 loafers for $120
An insider's guide to online secondhand shopping
Written by
. Edited by .I (Aja) have been looking for black loafers for years. I had a very specific vision in my head: supple, slim, and low-heeled. Something like these — but I didn’t want to spend my annual shoes budget on a single pair.
A few weeks ago, I was browsing Noihsaf when I saw them: a nearly-new pair of Tod’s. They were exactly what I’d pictured, in my size, and listed for a mere $120. (These retail in the high $800s.) I clicked “check out” immediately.
Most of what I buy these days is secondhand — but it wan’t always. The idea used to intimidate me: I didn’t know where to start, sizing between brands and decades is variable, and many sites don’t accept returns. But I’m glad I forged ahead, because the finds? The finds are good.
With tariffs threatening to make new clothing a lot more expensive (not to mention its perpetual environmental cost) here’s an updated guide to online vintage and secondhand shopping…
Where to shop
There are a bunch of different vintage/secondhand shopping platforms, each with their own advantages. In general, the more curated a platform is, the easier it is to browse without an agenda and stumble on something cool. On less curated sites, you’ll want to have a piece, era, and/or aesthetic in mind or follow sellers you like.
, former senior fashion writer for The Cut turned freelance writer and author of Shop Rat, says she’s “still” addicted to The RealReal — the online luxury/designer consignment sites that launched a hundred more — because “it’s the easiest to navigate, and you just can’t beat the fact that you can return stuff.” Plus, there are algorithmic discounts, which kick in automatically the longer a product is listed.
The Molehill founder loves Noihsaf Bazaar “for niche independent brands” — think resale from the coolest boutiques in Brooklyn. There’s a lot of babaà knits, DÔEN dresses, and B Sides denim. And if you’re shopping for cool secondhand clothing for your kids, there’s probably no better site.
I tend to mentally group Depop and Poshmark as platforms for inexpensive contemporary clothing, but
, author of , provides some useful differentiation. Depop is best for brands that skew younger, while Poshmark has a ton of contemporary mall and mid-range brands (think J. Crew, Madewell, etc.)Of late, my favorite platform has been Etsy. I like to look for specific pieces — think “60s shift dress” or “90s summer beach shorts” — and then filter by size, color, and price.
But the site that won the popular vote was eBay.
“If I had to choose one to shop for the rest of my life, it would be eBay because of the vast inventory and overall pricing compared to other platforms,” Viv explains.
The filtering options are even better than Etsy’s. “It’s the best for general searches (‘sweater vest,’ for example),” says Eleanor, “because you can use their extensive filters to narrow down by color, style, material, etc.”
Whatever site you’re using: Make an account! This will allow you to save products, searches, and stores/sellers, making it easier to stay organized. Plus, sellers will often send you exclusive deals for stuff you’ve added to your cart or watchlist but haven’t bought yet. (If you’re not worried about someone else snapping an item up, sitting on it for 24 hours is a reliable way to save money on its list price.)
How to shop
One of the first vintage items I bought was a pair of black Levis — perfectly worn, effortlessly cool. I was in a rush and, despite knowing the variability of vintage sizing, best-guessed the measurements. Unfortunately, my best guess was not correct: The jeans are too loose in the crotch and puddle at my ankles. It was an expensive mistake.
To avoid errors like this one…
, closet and style therapist and author of , suggests starting with pieces that don’t need to fit perfectly, like blazers and coats: They’re easier to tailor and provide more room for error. Reva will also trawl Google and Pinterest for older images of the item, hoping to see how it looks from different angles and fits on a model.
Everyone I talked to recommended getting a measuring tape and disregarding sizes. “Use measurements instead!” Eleanor says. “The pit to pit measurement is the easiest way for me to tell if something is going to fit.” She recommends grabbing a few of your favorite shirts and jackets, laying them flat, and measuring in a straight line from one armpit seam to the other. “Use those measurements as guidelines.”
Emilia says she always zooms in on the listing pictures to spot flaws, stains, etc. — ideally, in the item description the seller will call these out, but it doesn’t always happen.
Harling Ross Anton, founder of Gumshoe, encourages paying “scrupulous attention” to the item’s fabric composition. “A lot of secondhand and vintage (not to mention a lot of contemporary pieces) are made of polyester or other synthetic materials, which isn’t going to feel nice or age well,” she says. “Look for things made of 100% natural fibers like wool, silk, cotton, and linen.”
Usually the seller provides the item’s material(s) up-front (either in the description or via a picture of its tag), but if they don’t: Just ask.
Before I made an offer for a suede trench coat, I confirmed its composition with the seller. Not only was the exterior 100% leather, but the lining was 100% silk — telling me the coat was better-constructed than I’d known.
When to shop
Do you feel a bit overwhelmed? That’s normal, Viv says.
“There is a lot of stuff, and many things are one of one, with unique measurements and details. It’s a lot of mental processing that you don't have to do when shopping new. Notice when you start feeling exhausted and just walk away from the laptop.”
And be patient, she continues: “Secondhand wardrobes are built over years of careful shopping, and the process should be fun.”
If you’re looking for some inspiration, here are the stores and sellers I’ve bookmarked:
eBay:
Linda’s Stuff: 1M+ items; frequent Ace & Jig, Rachel Comey, Christy Dawn under $120, 30-day returns.
Fashion_Robbie: Constant refresh of DÔEN, Mara Hoffman, and Apiece Apart.
veru03: Small-batch drops of Ulla Johnson, Clare V., and Christy Dawn.
stylenewyorkcity: B SIDES & Totême denim, plus lots of great vintage.
orangeandrose: Boden, SEA New York, Tuckernuck, etc.
kukkamomo24: Ilana Kohn, OZMA, Ace & Jig, and Rouje.
Poshmark and Depop:
Elise Apffel: vintage French pants, floaty tops, and sweater vests $15 to $75.
YannyDrew1: Sézane and DOEN tops between $70 and $140.
ashleyy: A treasure trove of barely worn DOEN, Christy Dawn, and Oak Meadow dresses.
Threads Laid Bare: Babaa cardigans and 3.1 Phillip Lim sweaters at 40-60 % off retail (many less than $150.)
Etsy:
shopdetourvintage: Vintage Levi’s 501 and 505 jeans, shorts and jackets in every waist from 22-38″.
archetypevintage: ’60s-’80s cotton and silk dresses (including some very affordable designer) and stunning bags.
NaughtyKittyVintage: Size-inclusive ’50s-’80s statement dresses, knits, belts, and jewelry; a lot of fun finds in the $25 to $95 range.
RetrospectVintage215: Incredible vintage boots and denim, plus cool mid-century home goods.
Any great stores or tips we’ve missed? Share them in the comments!
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This is a great round-up, thanks! Gotta throw in a shout-out to ThredUp: they can have a lot to wade through (I'd argue that buying Shein second-hand isn't helping anyone), but their saved search feature will notify you when new items arrive in a particular brand/size/description, and they do have returns - for a fee, but makes it easier to take the plunge on the Levi's!
That being said, I appreciate all the specific seller recommendations; we'll see if I can branch out from my current one-and-only. :)
I freakin adore a graph and your graph of second-hand shopping because it’s so darn accurate. My best second-hand tip is to download the Gem app (I swear I’m not sponsored though I should be!). You can search a term and it scrubs all the resale sites you mentioned AND some niche sites too. It’s how I’ve found all my favorite resale finds.